First ascent of Magnolia
posted on August, 2014

 
You havent always necessarily to go to a far away place or country, to find a new challenge. This spring, after the iceclimbing season finished, Davide one of my climbing partners suggested me to try the original, direct extension of a route close to my home, that nobody hadn't climbed yet. The first part of the route is very physical with long moves, then very tiny crimps follow. It was not clear if it was possible to climb this second part, I knew that some persons had tried but nobody found a beta for this three unruffled meters. In a first try I found out some complex solutions for this technical part and knew that it was possible to climb it, I had now to put together all moves. Although the weather in Italy this spring and summer had been very rainy and the route was not always dry, in the end of June I could do for the first time a first ascent in sportsclimbing: Magnolia original extension, for which I suggest the grade 8a+. This isn't for sure a grade on the limit of the climbed difficulties but doing a route that in the beginning you didn't even know would be possible to free climb is for sure a great feeling.
Thanks for the great pics Jensen Walker


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