posted on September, 2015
This year in Italy we had the hottest summer since records are
taken, with several weeks reaching temperatures about 38°C all
over the country and I really enjoyed it! Normally in summer I focus
on sportsclimbing, mainly around home. After my very intense
winter seasons, participating in the various Ice climbing Worldcup
stages all over the world and making ice climbing trips to the US
and Kanada, for me it is very important to come down of all the
tension, to spent some time at home and to enjoy rockclimbing. I
take about 3 weeks completely off from climbing, going just for
some running and mountainbiking and letting my muscles rest from
a year of climbing. I think this is very important to prevent from
injuries and also to refil the mental power. Thats why some relaxing
at the beach, at the swimming pool or at one of our amazing lakes
in South Tyrol is really part of my summer, as rock climbing in the
Summer time is also time to try some new funny climbing
disciplines, like the Street boulder events that are beeing organized
in a lot of small and bigger towns in Northern Italy. The participants
are allowed to climb on old houses, elegant palazzi, stone walls or
even the municipality, what for the rest of the year would bring
them immediately into the police office.
This summer I got invited to another crazy event, a deep water
boulder competition, organized in a local swimming pool. The
athletes had to climb on an 8 meter, overhanging wall, situated
above the pool. If you could't do the boulder, you fell directly into
the water, if you could do it and arrived to the top – you had to
jump into the pool as well. Nevertheless it was one of the only rainy
nights with low temperatures in in the whole summer, it was fun to
try something new.
This summer I had planned to try a sportsclimbing route called ‘Il
panettiere’ (Italian for baker), situated in a really nice climbing crag
near Bergamo. After having done most of the harder routes in this
crag in the previous years, I decided to go for the hardest one, the
‘Panettiere’, graded 8b and which was stil without female ascent.
The crag ‘Valle dei mulini’ is famous for it’s tecnical climbing, while
this route is very powerful in the lower part and has then a tecnical
exit. I could do the harder, lower part after only a few tries, but had
problems with one move un the upper section, that I could not do
with the common beta the guys told me, as I was too small to reach
from one hole to the next. So I had to find a new solution for me
and try to hold a very tiny crimp. But nevertheless I tried very hard,
I could not do that move, it was simply too hot. My finger were
sweaty and physically I felt to be weaker. High temperatures are fun
if you are relaxing, but not if you are trying a hard climbing project!
So I decided to wait for the temperatures to drop a bit. The first day
I came back to the route it started raining already at the parking lot
and I was nervous, thinking that again the coniditions were not
good for such a hard route. At the first try of the day I did
immediately all the first hard part and so I sayed to myself that now
I had to give it all and I arrived to the top, feeling very happy to
have done this beautiful route.
After sending my summer project, I was motivated for some more
sportsclimbing and together with my boyfriend we decided to visit
some places we had never been to.
Frankenjura is probabely the most famous and popular climbing
area in Germany. In the 80ies some of the hardest sports climbing
routes were opened here and the very stong German climber and
climbing hero Wolfgang Guellich did the first 8c and then the first
9a in this area. Visiting this place and beeing able to repeat one of
his routes, called ‘Hitch hike the plane’, 7c+ at Krottenseer Turm,
for me was a real highlight.
Sometimes you reach an achievement when you don’t expect it:
without travelling far, in one of my homeareas around Bergamo, I
could do my hardest on sight ascent, doing the route ‘Gravity’ 7c+.
During another trip we went visiting our Kroatian friends. We did
some sportsclimbing in the very nice and quite new crags around
Istria region. As autumn and so the season to climb with ice axes
have approaeched, also some DryTooling was on our program.
Next for me is a trip to England, where I will participate in a
DryTooling competition on the Isle of Wight, climbing on the famous