posted on January, 2020

Finally I settled an old dept. I clipped the ancor
of Ironman, a drytooling route situated in
Switzerland and graded D14+. There is no better way
I could have finished 2019 and with it the decade in
which I dedicated myself so much to the climbing
with iceaxes!

I tried this route for the first time in March 2012,
shortly after the first ascent by Robert Jasper.
Back then it was the hardest drytooling route in the
world and much harder than the routes I had done but
I was immediately interested in trying it. Almost 2
years later, after a few trips to Eptingen and some
tries on the route I thought I had it. I made it all
the way through the horizontal roof and was shaking
out my hands at the last quickdraw before the last,
quite easy moves to the ancor, when the hold I was
on exploded and I was dangling in the air. It had
cost me so much motivation to try a route so close
to my absolute limit and more than 4 hours drive
from home, that the disappointment was huge. I did
not come back to the route for 6 years. This past
December, after having climbed harder routes than
Ironman in the past years, I finally decided to come
back to this old, open bill. I stil had quite some
respect, or even fear. The route stil made itself
desire quite a bit. It took me 3 more drives to
Switzerland until I finally clipped this ancor.

Thanks for the lucky belay Nikolay and thank you
Marco Servalli for always believing in me, even when
I don’t do it. And for the pictures.