|Via "Italia 61"
posted on october, 2008
In the end of September I was able to climb „Italia 61“ (8a, 230m) at Piz Ciavaces, Sella, Dolomites.
I had tried the route for the first time in spring and I immediately fell in love with it. The 8a – pitch, a 5 meter horizontal roof suited me very well. After some meters of slab climbing this roof is waiting for you with moves that you would expect to find in an Indoor-Boulderroom and not in an alpinist route with 150 meters of air below you. More problems I found in the pitch below, witch is graded a little easier but really technical and difficult to understand. I had to check it out for some time but bit by bit I was able to string together the single moves. On a cloudless day in the end of September finally everything went well: one pitch after the other was laying behind me, the crux and the final slab of the tricky 7c+, in the 8a I reached with one last dynamic move the bucket and it was done. It follows one easy pitch and also the last really long and pumpy 7a+ this day was no problem. After just two and a half hours I reached the ledge. Overjoyed I was standing there, looking out to the beautiful mountains around me and enjoyed this moment in the magnificent autumn sun.