|Rodellar - Pinza time, 8a flash
posted on september, 2011
My first trip to Rodellar, one of the most famous and most beautiful climbing areas of Spain, arrived directly after a month of rest because of a tendon inflammation at my elbow. It had been caused by too much pull-ups made the last autumn to prepare for iceclimbing, in May I was able to cure it but after one exercise of Campus board in summer, it immediately came back. In the beginning of September I was finally again without pain and so I was really motivated to climb, especially in a new place! The 8 climbing days should be utilized optimally. With “Grazias Fina”, a nice 8a with the crux on little toufas at midheight, done at second try, the first day definitely started well. The next day I was able to do at third try “Les cadres qui regènerent”, another 8a with a boulder section at midheight and a not easy to see edge at the end.
The day after Barbara and me we woke up early, our climbing destination this time was Riglos, known for it’s conglomerate towers erecting over the little town. „La fiesta de los bizeps“, an endurance multipitch route on steep conglomerate demanded not only for our biceps but also for the head.
Now a rest day was really necessary but as “only” relaxing at the pool for us was not an option, we visited Alquazar, a romantic, medieval town situated in the middle of rock faces.
After one month without climbing, these routes for me would have been a really nice success, but my best result was still going to happen. I was able to do “Pinza time”, a pure endurance route on steep toufas as my first 8a flash! Barbara could climb it at the third go. Great!
Slowly I started to feel tired of all the long, steep climbing and also the skin on my fingers became less and less. In a real battle, won only thanks to the motivation, I could still bring home “Argo”, a 35 meter 7c+ (ex 8a). The last two days I was climbing with my boyfriend Marco, but as I was really exhausted, the tries on “A crabita” remained without result. But together we decided that we would for sure come back to Rodellar the next year!