|Non mollare, do not let go
posted on March, 2012
This last one, for me was for sure the best week in my climbing life. Only 7 days after my win in the Ice climbing World Cup I could do my first 8b+.
“Non mollare”, which means “don’t let go” is the nicest route I ever climbed, but also the one, on which I worked most. Thanks to a friend I did a first try in August 2010. I wasn’t really convinced, as during the last years I had seen a lot of boys who struggled on the route. But Benno insisted that this was a route for me and so I tried- and was enthusiastic. I had problems with the two dynamic moves, but I could do all single moves and this was motivation enough for me to continue. But from here it was a long way to climb the route. I had to suspend for two ice climbing seasons and two times for an inflammation of the elbow, and every time I had to start again to try the key moves and had problems on a different move- but not this time. The last three months I had completely dedicated to the ice axes but the great season at the comps gave me a lot of energy and motivation. And last but not least on Saturday with a light wind and clouds there were good conditions.
I could do the first dyno, then block on the following small crimps and I had done the first crux. After this hard section I had a rest and then I went on to the second dyno, which I also held. Now I “only” had to climb on and not to let go on the last pumpy 10 meters. But with the shouts of encouragement of my friends below it was impossible for me to let go and I fought until the end. Thanks to all that cheered for me, belayed me and always believed that I could do it!