French connection D15-
posted on March, 2017

 
Since I had heard last winter about this new Drytooling cave called Tomorrows World at Passo Fedaia in the Dolomites, I was really curious. The British climber Tom Ballard who had bolted and claimed the first ascent of all the routes, had invited me to come and try. This meant that after having travelled to Canada and the USA to try and climb the hardest mixed routes over the past years, finally I would have projects out of the door in my homemountains. And the fact of having routes up to the grade D15 - the hardest Drytooling route in the World, was a possibility for me to aim high and try to increase my level, considering that last year I had reached the grade D14 with the route 'Low G man' at Iseo, Italy. So last February I went for a first visit and climbed together with Tom and the strong French climber Gaetan Raymond. I immediately liked the place but was struggeling especially with some very long moves and was not sure if I could do so many of them in such a long endurance route. Nevertheless at my first visit I was able to reach the ancor of Fear Index, D12. When I came back last November to kick off the new season I could increase the level and climb Edge of Tomorrow, D13 and I was very happy for this good shape early in the season, but on the harder routes I was stil having problems. The following month I worked a lot on my technique on long moves, also because they where requested a lot in this years Ice climbing World Cup competitions and when I came back after the competition season I saw that this work had completely paied off. I climbed the first day Oblivion, D14 and then checked out the moves of a D15- called French Connection. This route is a connection of two other lines, it starts together with Fear Index, then traverses into the nearly horizontal roof and finishes on the chain of Oblivion. 35 meters of steep endurance climbing. After two more days of tries together with some American friends Chris and Jonathan I could climb my first D15-. What a day!!! And what a way to finish the winter season!
thanks to all my friends that cheered and belayed and escpecially to my boyfriend Marco for his support!
pictures by Michi Maili


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